Take the winding path to Ezra

The street address for Ezra Cafe is 5629 Manatee Ave. W., Bradenton, but because you can't see the restaurant from the street, it is better to know that it is located in Palma Sola Square, and even then you might find yourself threading through parking lots before alighting on Ezra. But that challenge has not prevented the restaurant from building up a following in Bradenton.

The style of cooking at Ezra features native ingredients and styles with occasional international flourishes, mostly Asian.

In addition to the usual appetizers, salads and main courses, Ezra's menu includes a Light Dining section, which consists mostly of sandwiches like the Grilled Hibachi Style Chicken Breast Sandwich ($9), dressed with a pineapple mojo, and the Grilled Yellowfin Tuna Sandwich ($13), enlivened by a ginger and basil aioli.

Appetizers tread familiar ground with items like Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes ($12) and a Mediterranean Trio ($8) that offers tastes of hummus, tapenade and a sun-dried tomato pesto.

But it also takes off in interesting directions, as with the Portobello Fries ($5), which come with a ponzu sauce, the citrus-based sauce popular in Japanese cooking. A Pan-Fried Green Tomato Stack ($8) was just that, a little tower formed by the fried tomatoes, interlaced with briny feta cheese and finished off with a somewhat sweet tomato chutney. The tart cheese balanced the sweetness, leading to an agreeable intermingling of flavors.

Extra Select Gulf Oysters ($10) were breaded and fried and served with lemon and herb aioli. The oysters were plump and fresh and the breading not too heavy. The aioli stretched the interpretation of that term, lacking both richness and garlic intensity.

Besides the seafood, diners will find among the main courses Macadamia Crusted Chicken Breast ($17), Grilled Pork Tenderloin with a Granny Smith apple relish ($18), and both a Grilled Bone-In Ribeye ($25) and a Grilled Filet Mignon ($28). The Onion Crusted Key West Mahi Mahi ($24) was nicely cooked, leaving the fish firm and moist, but the onion crust was not as crisp as we had hoped. The key lime butter added an enjoyable citrus taste.

Spicy Tempura Gulf Shrimp ($21) presented large shrimp fried in a slightly sweetish tempura batter. They were served on a bed of rice, with scattered chunks of cashews, and they came with a somewhat incongruous side of spinach. A chili ponzu sauce helped the shrimp live up to their description, being just hot enough to make the shrimp interesting.

Service at Ezra is friendly and casual. There is a small selection of mostly American wines.